A Day on the Black Hills Central

The Black Hills Central started as the dream of two men to create a railroad where steam would live on, a living museum of sorts where future generations could experience steam first-hand. One of these men was William Heckman, who had public relations experience with both the C&EI and the M&StL. The other was Robert Freer, from Electro-Motive Diesel’s sales department. The irony is not lost on me that an employee of the company which brought about the end of the steam era would also be instrumental in saving it.

By 1956, they’d secured a lease on the ex-Colorado & Southern narrow gauge equipment that the CB&Q had used for rides around the 1948-1949 Chicago Railroad Fair. Also included was initial lease was Colorado & Southern 9, a narrow gauge Cooke 2-6-0 built for the Denver, South Park & Pacific in 1884. The only problem now was the the lack of surviving narrow gauge on which to run their new-found equipment.

Through a partnership with the CB&Q, the two secured use of the Keystone branch, running from Hill City, SD, about ten miles east to Keystone. The only problem was that the Keystone Branch was an active part of the Burlington’s standard gauge network, with active shippers still present on the route. As a result, a third rail was laid from Hill City to a point roughly halfway up the line, known as Oblivion, where a wye was constructed for turning.

The line still lacked power. #9, the little C&S 2-6-0, was nearly worn out, and wouldn’t be allowed to run through the Black Hills National Forest anyway. Coal-burning locomotives, like the 9, were banned from the forest in 1912 because of the risk that a hot ember would spark a forest fire. As a result, the fledgling operation purchased White Pass & Yukon 69, a 2-8-0 Baldwin oil-burner built in 1908. The unit became the road’s “Klondike Casey”, hauling the road’s first train on 18-Aug-1957 and acting as road’s only narrow gauge power for the next six years.

Starting in 1962, the service was extended from Oblivion to near the end of the line at Keystone, SD. No third rail was laid, however. Instead, standard gauge Baldwin 2-6-2 #7 was purchased and a standard gauge service was established from the end of the narrow gauge into Keystone. The steamer was acquired from Arkansas’s Prescott & Northwestern Railroad, who had purchased it from its original owner, the Ozan-Graysonia Lumber Company. Passengers were transferred between narrow and standard gauge trains at the Oblivion wye. This cumbersome arrangement continued for two years, until 1964, when 69 was deemed “worn out” and narrow gauge service ceased.

9 later went to the Georgetown Loop, and after decades of neglect, was finally restored to service in 2006. 69 was sold to the Nebraska Midland Railway in 1973. Eventually it went to the Stuhr Museum in Grand Island, Nebraska, in 1975, where it operated until it developed serious boiler and mechanical problems in the 1980s. The unit sat there, mostly disassembled, until it was sold back to the White Pass & Yukon in 2001. It’s since been restored to operation in Alaska.

The next major change in the line occurred in 1972, when a flash flood destroyed the final three miles into Keystone. As a result, operations moved to the BN High Line main between Hill City and Custer, about fourteen miles south. By 1977, the train returned to its original route, but still missing the final few miles to Keystone. Only a few years later, Burlington Northern began considering abandonment for most of the Black Hills lines, citing little traffic on the branches. To assure the continued survival of their route, the Black Hills Central purchased what remained of the Keystone branch from BN in 1981, and subsequently became isolated with the abandonment of BN’s Black Hills lines in 1983.

By 1990, the railroad was still operating, but much of the equipment was nearly worn out due to an inadequate reinvestment in the physical plant. The original owner, Bill Heckman, sold to two Black Hills locals – Robert and Jo Anna Wardner. Since then, significant improvements to the cars, locomotives, and plant have been made. In addition, a number of enhancements have been made. Coaches have been rebuilt and other cars converted into coaches to accomodate the growing patronage. Trains of the Black Hills Central returned to their original eastern terminus in Keystone in 2001, when the missing mile of track was rebuilt and returned to service. The road also acquired a larger steamer – Weyerhaeuser 110, a rare 2-6-6-2T logging Mallet – and completely rebuilt it as well, returning it to service later in 2001.

Today, the road uses their original standard gauge 2-6-2, #7, and two tank units – ex-Portland Terminal 2-6-2T 104 and ex-Weyerhaeuser 2-6-6-2T 110. They also have #1, a Whitcomb 80-ton diesel from Black Hills Power & Light, recently-acquired ex-Progress Rail GP9 #63, and 104’s sister, 103, which is inoperable. Trains typically run with either 110 or a combination of 7 & 104 (back-to-back), with the GP9 being used on some trains in the off-season.

It’s well worth the trip to ride the Black Hills Central. It’s a scenic, well-run operation with some interesting steam power unlike anything you’ll find elsewhere. To get more details, see their official website at 1880Train.com.

Riding the BHC

Upon my Friday evening arrival, both 104 and 7 were sitting in front of the Hill City enginehouse, apparently cold

On Saturday morning, both engines were steamed up as I arrived at the depot. BHC 110, the big 2-6-6-2T that I'd hoped to ride behind, is nowhere in sight. Presumably, it's in the shed. — On Saturday morning, both engines were steamed up as I arrived at the depot. BHC 110, the big 2-6-6-2T that I’d hoped to ride behind, is nowhere in sight. Presumably, it’s in the shed.

This is the Black Hills Central's recently-acquired GP9. It's formerly Progressive Rail 63, CBRM 63, NEKM 63, Indiana & Ohio 63, and originally, C&O 6178. — This is the Black Hills Central’s recently-acquired GP9. It’s formerly Progressive Rail 63, CBRM 63, NEKM 63, Indiana & Ohio 63, and originally, C&O 6178.

When 104 and 7 handle a train, they run back to back. 104 was the first out of the engine tracks Saturday morning. Here's the back of the unit, showing the oil bunker that holds its fuel. — When 104 and 7 handle a train, they run back to back. 104 was the first out of the engine tracks Saturday morning. Here’s the back of the unit, showing the oil bunker that holds its fuel.

In order to get from the engine tracks over to the train, the crew has to perform a see-saw move, first going up, then back, and then forward again onto the train. The morning air is definitely cold, and the steam is really lingering as clouds around the cylinders.

Number 7, a Baldwin 2-6-2, comes along second, and will lead the day's morning train up to Keystone. — Number 7, a Baldwin 2-6-2, comes along second, and will lead the day’s morning train up to Keystone.

For a number of years, the Black Hills Central ran ex-C&S and ex-WP&YR narrow gauge equipment, necessitating a dual gauge line out from Hill City. Just out of the yard, one of the trestles still shows the plates and spikes from the third rail.

Right on time, we're out of the Hill City yard on the morning train to Keystone and back. While decently patronized, the train isn't quite full by any means. That'll change for the return trip. — Right on time, we’re out of the Hill City yard on the morning train to Keystone and back. While decently patronized, the train isn’t quite full by any means. That’ll change for the return trip.

Rolling along on a nice sunny September morning in the Black Hills, even if it is a bit cold. This is somewhere near Kennedyville (milepost 3).

As I mentioned above, the original Black Hills Central was run with narrow gauge on a section of dual gauge track between Hill City and a narrow gauge wye they constructed at Oblivion. Here's the Oblivion wye track with a caboose still sitting there. — As I mentioned above, the original Black Hills Central was run with narrow gauge on a section of dual gauge track between Hill City and a narrow gauge wye they constructed at Oblivion. Here’s the Oblivion wye track with a caboose still sitting there.

That said, I have absolutely no idea where this caboose came from, nor if it was originally narrow or standard gauge.

Once over the crest at Oblivion, the train starts downgrade towards Keystone - still some five miles away. — Once over the crest at Oblivion, the train starts downgrade towards Keystone – still some five miles away.

At least on this particular Saturday, the train was very well patronized. While we had a few empty seats going from Hill City to Keystone, this huge crowd getting on the train at the Keystone terminal assures there won't be any empty seats on the way back. — At least on this particular Saturday, the train was very well patronized. While we had a few empty seats going from Hill City to Keystone, this huge crowd getting on the train at the Keystone terminal assures there won’t be any empty seats on the way back.

While the new bunch of passengers are loading, 104 and 7 run around the train on the Keystone siding, putting the little 2-6-2T on the front for the return trip. Notice that the weather's deteriorated a bit - it's foggy, overcast, and cold now. — While the new bunch of passengers are loading, 104 and 7 run around the train on the Keystone siding, putting the little 2-6-2T on the front for the return trip. Notice that the weather’s deteriorated a bit – it’s foggy, overcast, and cold now.

Just another shot of 7 from the run-around at Keystone. The road back to Hill City can be seen on the right. The last mile of track into Keystone from Keystone Junction - the section we're on right now - was completely destroyed in a 1972 flood. After a three-decade absence, the final miles and the Keystone station were rebuilt in 2001. — Just another shot of 7 from the run-around at Keystone. The road back to Hill City can be seen on the right. The last mile of track into Keystone from Keystone Junction – the section we’re on right now – was completely destroyed in a 1972 flood. After a three-decade absence, the final miles and the Keystone station were rebuilt in 2001.

Coming around one of the corners in the Battle Creek valley, just before the climb to Oblivion really starts.

Going back, I didn't take as many photos. However, I did take this one, nearing the bottom of Tin Mill Hill (the first big grade out of Hill City). It gives you some idea of the steep nature of this little branch (4-6%). — Going back, I didn’t take as many photos. However, I did take this one, nearing the bottom of Tin Mill Hill (the first big grade out of Hill City). It gives you some idea of the steep nature of this little branch (4-6%).

Back in Hill City, the power cuts off to go get water as the passengers are unloaded.

Unlike BHC 7, with its conventional tender, BHC 104 doesn't receive water from the spout on the tank. While it can be filled via a port just behind the stack, in this case, it brings water into its saddle tank via that red hose connected just ahead of the cab. — Unlike BHC 7, with its conventional tender, BHC 104 doesn’t receive water from the spout on the tank. While it can be filled via a port just behind the stack, in this case, it brings water into its saddle tank via that red hose connected just ahead of the cab.

The BHC has another diesel - BHC 1. This is an 80-ton Whitcomb that originally worked for Black Hills Power and Light, switching their Lead, SD, plant. It was brought to the BHC in 1983. — The BHC has another diesel – BHC 1. This is an 80-ton Whitcomb that originally worked for Black Hills Power and Light, switching their Lead, SD, plant. It was brought to the BHC in 1983.

The BHC's passenger cars are both a little odd and very unique. If they look like old trolley cars, that's because they are. Coaches Orville, Keystone, Addie Camp, Redfern, Mystic, and Blue Bird were all rebuilt from ex-Oregon Electric Railway cars. — The BHC’s passenger cars are both a little odd and very unique. If they look like old trolley cars, that’s because they are. Coaches Orville, Keystone, Addie Camp, Redfern, Mystic, and Blue Bird were all rebuilt from ex-Oregon Electric Railway cars.

BHC's Keystone, another of the old OE cars. — BHC’s Keystone, another of the old OE cars.

BHC's Redfern was also an Oregon Electric car, but not for passengers. It was originally a baggage car, converted for open-air passenger use by the BHC in 1998. — BHC’s Redfern was also an Oregon Electric car, but not for passengers. It was originally a baggage car, converted for open-air passenger use by the BHC in 1998.

This, on the other hand, is not an ex-Oregon Electric car... This is former Chicago & Northwestern drover caboose 10800. A drover caboose was tacked on to stock trains to allow ranchers to accompany their stock to market. It's one of two surviving examples in the US today. — This, on the other hand, is not an ex-Oregon Electric car… This is former Chicago & Northwestern drover caboose 10800. A drover caboose was tacked on to stock trains to allow ranchers to accompany their stock to market. It’s one of two surviving examples in the US today.

I have absolutely no idea what this is (other than a caboose - yes, thanks, I know that much...) With those archbar trucks, though, it's clearly very old. It's just one of many pieces of equipment sitting around the Hill City yard. — I have absolutely no idea what this is (other than a caboose – yes, thanks, I know that much…) With those archbar trucks, though, it’s clearly very old. It’s just one of many pieces of equipment sitting around the Hill City yard.

All ready to go at the Hill City station. I've got about an hour before for the afternoon trip, so it's off to fill the car with gas and find some lunch. — All ready to go at the Hill City station. I’ve got about an hour before for the afternoon trip, so it’s off to fill the car with gas and find some lunch.

Chasing the BHC

While it was sunny when we got off the train, by the afternoon run things are starting to get very cold and cloud up a bit. A bit after 1315h, the afternoon train leaves the yard at Hill City, SD.

Just west of Hill City, the route climbs twisty 4-6% grades up Tin Mill Hill - so named because there used to be a tin mill near the top. The road takes another route over the hill, and the two rejoin at Kennedyville. There's really nothing there any more, just a single old grey house. — Just west of Hill City, the route climbs twisty 4-6% grades up Tin Mill Hill – so named because there used to be a tin mill near the top. The road takes another route over the hill, and the two rejoin at Kennedyville. There’s really nothing there any more, just a single old grey house.

This is the fifth of the nineteen grade crossings in the nine miles between Hill City and Keystone. Yes, nineteen crossings. Fortunately, the train travels slow enough that unless you're trying to get stopped by it, you'll probably only meet it at one or two of them. — This is the fifth of the nineteen grade crossings in the nine miles between Hill City and Keystone. Yes, nineteen crossings. Fortunately, the train travels slow enough that unless you’re trying to get stopped by it, you’ll probably only meet it at one or two of them.

The train is seen at the Palmer Gulch Road crossing, climbing up the west side of the hill towards Oblivion.

On the east side of the Oblivion hill, the line makes a sweeping curve before it crosses the old Hill City-Keystone road again - grade crossing number 7. It's a blind crossing, thanks to this rock formation. — On the east side of the Oblivion hill, the line makes a sweeping curve before it crosses the old Hill City-Keystone road again – grade crossing number 7. It’s a blind crossing, thanks to this rock formation.

The road and railway stick reasonably close together for the rest of the way into Keystone from this point. Near the Indian Cliffs (the rock formations seen in the background), the road, railway, and creek all share a very narrow, winding valley.

Dropping downgrade from the Indian Cliffs down towards Keystone Junction

The same location as the previous shot, but I just liked this one

This is Keystone Junction. This was the end of the line after the 1972 flood destroyed the rest of the track to Keystone. Service resumed beyond here in 2001.

Since the power's reversed, you know this is the return trip. While the train was stopped in Keystone, the weather took a very sudden turn for the worse. This fog rolled in, and the temperature dropped 15ish degrees. This shot is just after the train left the Keystone station. — Since the power’s reversed, you know this is the return trip. While the train was stopped in Keystone, the weather took a very sudden turn for the worse. This fog rolled in, and the temperature dropped 15ish degrees. This shot is just after the train left the Keystone station.

Nothing more fun than shooting in the rain... This is just west of Keystone Junction, near the Echo Valley Park campground. — Nothing more fun than shooting in the rain… This is just west of Keystone Junction, near the Echo Valley Park campground.

104 steps out onto one of the line's trestles near milepost 6. This is just east of the Indian Cliffs area. — 104 steps out onto one of the line’s trestles near milepost 6. This is just east of the Indian Cliffs area.

Crossing the road again, along with one of the other hearty souls out chasing in the rain today.

Through the Indian Cliffs area, the road and railway cross twice within a few hundred yards. They do this to go around a bend in the canyon - the road swinging wider than the railway, thus needing the crossings. Here you can see the S-curve in the railway, along with the easternmost road crossing. — Through the Indian Cliffs area, the road and railway cross twice within a few hundred yards. They do this to go around a bend in the canyon – the road swinging wider than the railway, thus needing the crossings. Here you can see the S-curve in the railway, along with the easternmost road crossing.

Here's the train curving out of the Battle Creek Valley up towards the grade to the east side of Oblivion. — Here’s the train curving out of the Battle Creek Valley up towards the grade to the east side of Oblivion.

This is the start of the grade on the west side of the hill to Oblivion. The train has just dropped off the 4% grade and will be in Kennedyville shortly. The rain is starting to pick up a bit by this point, and I'm debating how much further I want to chase. — This is the start of the grade on the west side of the hill to Oblivion. The train has just dropped off the 4% grade and will be in Kennedyville shortly. The rain is starting to pick up a bit by this point, and I’m debating how much further I want to chase.

Still, there was one more shot I wanted - this one on the west side of Tin Mill Hill, as the line drops down the rediculously steep grade into Hill City. Through this stretch, there's a blind grade crossing where the road crosses the line right out of a cut. I stopped for one last shot there, since I knew the units would be throwing up quite a steam plume from the whistles. I hope you've enjoyed my quick look at the Black Hills Central. — Still, there was one more shot I wanted – this one on the west side of Tin Mill Hill, as the line drops down the rediculously steep grade into Hill City. Through this stretch, there’s a blind grade crossing where the road crosses the line right out of a cut. I stopped for one last shot there, since I knew the units would be throwing up quite a steam plume from the whistles. I hope you’ve enjoyed my quick look at the Black Hills Central.

All photographs in this trip report were taken with a Canon EOS 20D using either a Canon 24-105mm F4 L IS/USM or a Canon 75-300mm f4-5.3 IS/USM.

This work is copyright 2024 by Nathan D. Holmes, but all text and images are licensed and reusable under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike license. Basically you’re welcome to use any of this as long as it’s not for commercial purposes, you credit me as the source, and you share any derivative works under the same license. I’d encourage others to consider similar licenses for their works.