Riding the C&TS – Jun 21, 2003

Amongst everything that can be said about it, nobody will deny that the Cumbres and Toltec has a remarkable resiliance against adversity. How many other railroads could survive being shut down for a third of their last season, the bankruptcy of their operator, the lack of funding from one of its parent states, and having no locomotives that passed FRA Part 230 as of the close of the last season? Thanks to lots of work from lots of different people and organizations, the 2003 season officially opened on Jun 14, 2003 with a note of cautious optimism that the worst might be behind us. With a million in funding from New Mexico, a new contract for operating the railroad, a million dollar grant for restoring the locomotive fleet, and a packed-full set of trains on its first weekend of operations, things were looking up for the C&TS. I wasn’t able to make it down for opening day due to other commitments, but I did have a Saturday open on the twenty-first. Since I’d railfanned the line four or five times since moving to Colorado but hadn’t ridden it since 1998, I thought it was about time I go for a ride again. Plus, while I was at it, it would be a good excuse to drag my wife along for the weekend.

Actually, I almost didn’t get on the Saturday train. For those that know the infamous C&TS reservation system, this will be just yet another example of why it needs so much help. I made reservations via the website on Tuesday, expecting it to be updated on whether or not the train was full. Besides, those who know me know I’d much rather just deal with machines than have to actually talk to a live service rep. However, the next day, I got an email telling me that the train was full. So I called 1-800-CUMBRES immediately, and asked if they had any parlor car openings instead. I’d already set aside time for the weekend, and I wasn’t going to miss out. Nope, no parlor car seats. On an off chance, I asked them to check on normal coach seats. Well, that wasn’t a problem at all – there were a small number left. The lady on the phone was very helpful – but dang, if you’re going to offer reservations via the website, the systems need to be linked. Not only that, but there needs to be a way of checking train availability without having to give the service rep all of your information first. So, I had a confirmation number for two coach seats, and I felt fairly comfortable that this time I really had them.

Michelle and I left Colorado Springs after work on Friday and headed for Alamosa. Really an uneventful and unremarkable trip, aside from a flat tire and the Days Inn trashing our reservation due to some problem between their personnel and the internet booking system.

Saturday morning dawned clear and beautiful. After grabbing a few shots of new lease units stored in the Alamosa yard for the upcoming San Luis Rio Grande operation, we headed down to Antonito. Upon arriving at the depot, there were two sets of tickets waiting with my name on them – one with two tickets, one with three. The reservation system strikes again! I have no idea where the three came from, but I picked up the two and the staff cancelled the rest – not a problem at all. After walking around the yard and photographing a few things, we finally boarded one of the buses. At 0845h, we off for Chama, tickets in hand.

Once we’d arrived in Chama (about an hour later, 0945h), the train was sitting at the platform awaiting passengers – and the passengers were everywhere but on the train. With no power on the train yet, the passengers (and other fans) were scattered about the yard talking to each other and the many Friends volunteers, as well as looking at all the equipment and of course waiting for 487 to make a move. As for 487, it was still sitting at the enginehouse with a couple of the guys filling her with sand and finishing a few morning maintenance chores. While the schedule gives a 1000h departure time, I’ve found that really doesn’t hold all that well most of the time. A little after 1000h, the crew brought 487 out of the shops, moving a crane/derrick that was in the way. After the crane was tucked away in a siding, 487 pulled back and had her tender filled with coal. Shortly thereafter, it was backed onto the train and we finally got underway.

The trip up the hill was interesting, if uneventful. While 487 had suffered from some slippage and timing issues the previous week, those were all gone. Between just running the rust and weeds off the rails and having the shop crew adjust the timing, 487 and crew provided a nearly flawless performance up the hill. The only minor problem was after a water stop at Cresco when there was a bit of trouble getting started on the grade. Once we reached the summit, we tacked on two more coaches and two open-air cars for the trip on down to Antonito. These cars were stored at the summit, as 5 coaches, 1 snack car, and 1 parlor car tax a K-36 enough coming up the hill. Once the 4% grade is behind the train, they can add these cars in without any problem, since it’s mostly downhill to Antonito.

Lunch in Osier was only a little behind schedule, but definitely well worth the wait. From the last time I was on the train, the food served for lunch is a very significant improvement. The new operation, going by the name Osier Kitchen, offers an all-you-can-eat meal of either roast beef, beef or chicken enchiladas, hamburgers, or hot dogs. All include a decent-sized soup/salad bar included for $8.50 a head. Oh yes, and I forgot the most important part – the incredible desserts. Don’t wait until after you’ve eaten to grab dessert – I personally recommend the fresh chocolate cake. I’m a chocoholic, and this stuff was so rich and the piece so big I almost couldn’t finish the whole thing. For those that just can’t wait, the homemade rum cake and cookies in the snack car are pretty darn good, too.

The only real catch in the whole day came shortly after lunch. Coming out of Mud Tunnel, the crew spotted some obstruction on the track and put the train into emergency. I was moving across the open platform car at the time, and plugging the brakes nearly sent me to the floor. That’s my luck – the minute I’m not holding on to the rail is the moment I need to be. Aside from that minor (and quickly corrected) incident, the rest of the trip into Antonito was as operationally smooth as possible. Obviously on a 120-year-old narrow gauge, the ride isn’t going to be all that smooth, but that’s part of the experience that draws us in.

Arrival in Antonito was around 1745h, about an hour after we were scheduled to arrive. That’s still not bad, and better than many other days last season where I was still waiting for the train well after 1800h. Thankfully, we’d taken the bus over in the morning, so upon arrival all we had to do was get in the truck and head off for the three and a half hours home to Colorado Springs. The photos for the day aren’t spectacular or even anything to particularly write home about, but there’s only so much that can be done from the platform of a moving passenger car on rough rails. However, it does show parts of the railroad you’ll never see except from the train. If you’ve only ‘fanned the route, you definitely are missing a big chunk of the fun. The area between Los Pinos and Hangmans Trestle (the section least accessible by road) is also the most scenic. Enjoy!

I want to note as an afterthought (for anybody out there listening) that the car docent program is really an asset to the railroad. I remember the intercom announcer from years ago, and I also remember wishing the guy had an off switch. Dry, dull, overly repetitive, and boring – the same reason I will often turn off the commentary track when watching a railfan-oriented DVD. Rich Muth, assigned to our car in the morning and the open air car in the afternoon, was a tremendous guide and car host, in terms of wit and knowledge, entertaining those in car 105 all the way up the hill and everybody out in the open during the afternoon. Anybody who can keep the general public interested while not losing the attention of fans like myself has a real talent for the job.

A quick map and guide to the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic - by no means complete, but better than anything else I know of on the web. — A quick map and guide to the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic – by no means complete, but better than anything else I know of on the web.

Despite the fact we were riding from Chama to Antonito, we actually took Trip #1, where we boarded a bus in Antonito at 0830h and headed for Chama. That saved a few miles on the way back to Colorado Springs that evening.

The most visible thing in Antonito in the morning was C&TS 19 with three ballast cars sitting on the balloon track.

Also, K-27 463 is sitting outside the Antonito shops, presumably being stored until time and money are available to make her FRA Part 230 compliant and operational again.

An hour later, in Chama, another old warrior sits outside the engine house awaiting restoration work.

But not all is quiet in Chama - 487, the first of the fleet to be rebuilt, takes on a little sand before the day's trip. — But not all is quiet in Chama – 487, the first of the fleet to be rebuilt, takes on a little sand before the day’s trip.

487 was the first through the shop, and 484 will be next. 488 sits outside just north of the Chama shops on shop trucks while her running gear has been removed for rebuilding. I think the tender is still in Antonito receiving work.

To get 487 out of the shops, the crew needs to move the crane/derrick that's been parked on the engine house lead. Here, they're pushing it to a siding just beyond the coaling tower. — To get 487 out of the shops, the crew needs to move the crane/derrick that’s been parked on the engine house lead. Here, they’re pushing it to a siding just beyond the coaling tower.

Only half an hour late, we've finally got power on the train! Apparently some minor issues with 487 that morning delayed preparations for departure, and from the many visits to the C&TS, I've just come to expect such things. It's a sold-out train with 5 coaches, the snack car, and the parlor car at the end. — Only half an hour late, we’ve finally got power on the train! Apparently some minor issues with 487 that morning delayed preparations for departure, and from the many visits to the C&TS, I’ve just come to expect such things. It’s a sold-out train with 5 coaches, the snack car, and the parlor car at the end.

There's only so much you can do photographically as a passenger on a train - I apologize for all the "train on a curve" shots, but it gives those who've never seen it in person an idea of what we're passing through. Here we rounding a curve just below Lobato. — There’s only so much you can do photographically as a passenger on a train – I apologize for all the “train on a curve” shots, but it gives those who’ve never seen it in person an idea of what we’re passing through. Here we rounding a curve just below Lobato.

Here we are with Jeremy (the engineer) laying on the whistle for the second crossing of Highway 17 near Coxo. We'd just stopped for water at Cresco, and while we had a bit of a problem getting started again, it wasn't nearly as bad as the slipping on some of the first trips of the year. It just shows the rails are getting polished and the weeds cut down! — Here we are with Jeremy (the engineer) laying on the whistle for the second crossing of Highway 17 near Coxo. We’d just stopped for water at Cresco, and while we had a bit of a problem getting started again, it wasn’t nearly as bad as the slipping on some of the first trips of the year. It just shows the rails are getting polished and the weeds cut down!

Nearing the summit at Cumbres, the train is just about to round Windy Point.

For those that haven't ever seen the view from up here, this is what it looks like when you look back south towards Chama. Note Hwy 17 and the grade crossing from Photo #11 below us. — For those that haven’t ever seen the view from up here, this is what it looks like when you look back south towards Chama. Note Hwy 17 and the grade crossing from Photo #11 below us.

Since 487 was doing all it could to drag our train up the four percent grade from Chama, the open-air observations were left at Cumbres summit for us to pick up once we'd crested the hill. Here, 487 is cut off and retrieving the two flats and two coaches. — Since 487 was doing all it could to drag our train up the four percent grade from Chama, the open-air observations were left at Cumbres summit for us to pick up once we’d crested the hill. Here, 487 is cut off and retrieving the two flats and two coaches.

Here's our fire protection crew, riding in speeder 012 and wondering what the heck is taking us so long to pick up four cars at Cumbres. — Here’s our fire protection crew, riding in speeder 012 and wondering what the heck is taking us so long to pick up four cars at Cumbres.

The train's almost back together and ready for the trip down through Tanglefoot towards Los Pinos and Osier. — The train’s almost back together and ready for the trip down through Tanglefoot towards Los Pinos and Osier.

This is the view rounding the lower part of Tanglefoot curve on the descent from the summit. Note the track coming from East Cumbres about 30 feet above the track we're currently on... — This is the view rounding the lower part of Tanglefoot curve on the descent from the summit. Note the track coming from East Cumbres about 30 feet above the track we’re currently on…

The eastbound 487 and train is cruising across the relatively flat plain at Los Pinos.

East of the Los Pinos valley lies the approach to the Toltec Gorge, marked by the river steadily dropping away from the railway into an ever-deepening canyon below. As such, the railway crosses two large side drainages created by streams headed for the river. The first of these (eastbound) is Long Creek, crossed by a culvert and fill on this curve.

The second crossing is by far the more interesting - Cascade Creek Trestle is one of two of these magnificent steel structures on the line (the other being Lobato). — The second crossing is by far the more interesting – Cascade Creek Trestle is one of two of these magnificent steel structures on the line (the other being Lobato).

Definitely a long way down - 137 feet, to be exact. Cascade Creek Trestle, built in 1889 to replace the original timber trestle, is 408 feet long and was built by the Keystone Bridge Company. — Definitely a long way down – 137 feet, to be exact. Cascade Creek Trestle, built in 1889 to replace the original timber trestle, is 408 feet long and was built by the Keystone Bridge Company.

As the gorge deepens, the space available for building a railway lessens. This lead the Rio Grande to perch the line on some very precarious little ledges, such as here at Martinez Point. Last year the FRA decided this one was a little too unstable, and thus the line was relocated back from the edge for several hundred feet.

Not long after Martinez Point, the train crosses another small drainage and curves into Osier for a lunch stop.

And following right behind are our fire-fighting friends in speeder 012.

Having plowed through lunch (hey, a late lunch makes me rather hungry), I hurried back up to the head end of the train to get a few shots before we continued east.

After an hour break at Osier to feed ourselves, we were once again eastbound behind 487. One note about Osier - the food is very much improved over the last time I rode the train (about five years ago). It's $8.50/person, and all-you-can-eat. While the entrees are great, the dessert is all that much better. As someone who loves his dessert, I strongly recommend picking yours up before everyone else does. — After an hour break at Osier to feed ourselves, we were once again eastbound behind 487. One note about Osier – the food is very much improved over the last time I rode the train (about five years ago). It’s $8.50/person, and all-you-can-eat. While the entrees are great, the dessert is all that much better. As someone who loves his dessert, I strongly recommend picking yours up before everyone else does.

Here we are rounding Phantom Curve, so called because of the odd reflections caused by a locomotive headlight on the volcanic pillars and walls at night.

One of the largest and oddest of the volcanic structures is this pillar at Phantom Curve.

Just after Phantom Curve comes Mud Tunnel. It gets its name from the soft volcanic ash and mud that it's bored through. Because of the instability of the material, this tunnel is lined with wood and concrete to prevent collapse. Here you're looking at the west portal as the train dives inside. — Just after Phantom Curve comes Mud Tunnel. It gets its name from the soft volcanic ash and mud that it’s bored through. Because of the instability of the material, this tunnel is lined with wood and concrete to prevent collapse. Here you’re looking at the west portal as the train dives inside.

Toltec Siding is now the longest on this section of the line. Originally 1166 feet long, it was expanded to 3400 feet in the 1950s because of the long gas-pipe trains running over the railroad. Now it mainly sits and rusts in the weeds.

Just a look back at the east end of the Toltec Gorge.

After Toltec, the line torturously winds around the cliffs towards Sublette. The C&TS has restored the section house and associated buildings at Sublette, but unfortunately there's not really a good way to see them. Here we see the train just outside of Sublette near MP 307 - the site of additional trackwork in recent years, as evidenced by the new ballast. — After Toltec, the line torturously winds around the cliffs towards Sublette. The C&TS has restored the section house and associated buildings at Sublette, but unfortunately there’s not really a good way to see them. Here we see the train just outside of Sublette near MP 307 – the site of additional trackwork in recent years, as evidenced by the new ballast.

As the train rounds the curve into Big Horn, the crew decides it's time for a little blowdown. — As the train rounds the curve into Big Horn, the crew decides it’s time for a little blowdown.

This is the Big Horn wye, and at the end of it you can see a little yellow track critter being stored.

To change elevation quickly with a reasonable grade, the Rio Grande used a pair of very tight horseshoe curves, now known as the upper and lower Whiplash Curves. From the upper level, we can see the Lower Whiplash in the valley below.

At this point, just beyond the Lower Whiplash, the line has gone from running through moutain forests to high desert country. The last fifteen miles into Antonito are in this or very similar terrain.

487 passes under the Lava tank. While it looks good, the tank is no longer functional, its pump long ago lost.

The Lava Loop really is a complete loop. While our train negotiates the main line, the lower and upper levels are connected by a very steep track, allowing for the turning of power and snowplows.

Just beyond Lava, the track starts working its way down the sides of the lava-capped mesa we've been travellling on. This was shot near milepost 289 as we're headed down towards Hangmans Trestle and onto the valley floor. — Just beyond Lava, the track starts working its way down the sides of the lava-capped mesa we’ve been travellling on. This was shot near milepost 289 as we’re headed down towards Hangmans Trestle and onto the valley floor.

It just proves that when I'm bored, I'll photograph anything. In the high desert above Antonito, there really aren't many photo opportunities for a passenger on an eastbound in the late afternoon. — It just proves that when I’m bored, I’ll photograph anything. In the high desert above Antonito, there really aren’t many photo opportunities for a passenger on an eastbound in the late afternoon.

Finally at the end of the day's run, 487 and train stop in Antonito about 1745h. 487 sits for photo ops with the passengers while our two crewmen wander out of the photo. — Finally at the end of the day’s run, 487 and train stop in Antonito about 1745h. 487 sits for photo ops with the passengers while our two crewmen wander out of the photo.

All shots in this trip report were taken with a Canon EOS 10D with a Canon 28-105mm USM or a Canon 75-300mm f4-5.3 IS/USM.

This work is copyright 2024 by Nathan D. Holmes, but all text and images are licensed and reusable under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike license. Basically you’re welcome to use any of this as long as it’s not for commercial purposes, you credit me as the source, and you share any derivative works under the same license. I’d encourage others to consider similar licenses for their works.